I finally found some time today to dive into the RS45. For those that dont know, I owned a RS1 and RS40 before getting this 45. I put ~540 hours on my RS40 in the ~11 months I owned it and just sold it a few weeks ago.
I am using the zoom method on a 117.5" diag/9' wide 2.35 DaLite HP 2.8 screen which gives me a 94" diag 1.78 image. The RS45 is right near max throw for the 1.78 image at 17.5'. I am somewhere around mid throw for my 2.35/40 image. I am getting around 2.1-2.2 real world gain from the HP in my setup in my center seat (which I sit in 95+% of the time). Seating distance is about 12.5' which puts me at about a 1.8 view distance for 1.78.
Had a bit of a scare right off the bat as the unit would not get power for some reason. After unplugging and plugging the power cable back in a few times, I got power
.....who knows.
First thing I did was experiment with the lens memory since this was my big motivation for upgrading. I need to experiment a bit more with this before coming to any final conclusions, but so far when I switch from my 2.35 preset to my 1.85, it is perfect! The strange thing though is everytime I went from 1.85 back to my 2.35 memory setting, the shift was off slightly both vertical and horizontal...........not sure if it was consistently off each time or not and like I said I need to experiment more with this. So far though even with this being slightly off, I am happy as it makes switching aspects a bit easier. I will report back after I play with this some more though. It is a bit slow, but faster than I could do it manually so I am not complaining. Oh, I did not find the amount of button presses on the remote to be an issue at all. I know this has bothered some, but I found it a non issue.
Next I put in the AVS 709 disc to do some basic settings such as contrast, brightness, check uniformity and convergence. Brightness needed a 1 click bump to +1 and contrast was good at 0. Brightness and color uniformity with the various patterns off the 709 disc looked excellent and no issues here.
Convergence I noticed right off the bat was off a bit with the blue horizontal. 1 pixel shift to the left proved to be the best setting which put the center dead on, the top slightly off in one direction and the bottom slightly off in the other. Overall, nothing to worry about after the pixel shift. Vertical blue is dead on across the entire screen and red both horizontal and vertical was dead on across the screen which I was really happy about as that seems to be the most obvious one as far as misconvergence. My RS40 was just the opposite as blue was bang on in both directions, but red was slightly off (cant remember now if it was in the V or H). Overall, the convergence on this RS45 is slightly better than my RS40, but both overall I would rate as VERY good. One interesting note about the pixel shift feature that has changed from the previous RS series is there is no longer a green shift adjustment for either vertical or horizontal. There are now just 4 options with vertical and horizontal adjustments for both red and blue. This could be an issue I guess if you end up with green out of whack, but luckily on my particular unit that was fine.
For 2d, I am using the Natural preset with gamma A (still need to find the best gamma, but right now I am using A) and standard color which has been measured very close to REC709. I changed sharpness from the default (cant remember what it was) to +6 and detail enhance back down to "0".
I then decided to throw on Monsters Inc not for any other reason than it was sitting there
. As I mentioned, I have the RS45 near max throw for 1.85/78 material which means max contrast, least light output. I also have my iris closed ALL the way down to -15 and I am using low lamp.........so basically I have this 45 setup for max contrast/least light output. Even with this setup on my HP 2.8 screen, the image is VERY bright, punchy and just flat out gorgeous! Basically, it looked just like I remember my RS40 image. Subjectively without being able to do an A/B comparison, I would say the 2d image between the 40 and 45 is identical for all practical purposes. Maybe an A/B would bring out slight differences, but that is all that there could be (again, if any). For my 2.35 image, I bump the iris up to -10 and again very bright, punchy and flat out awesome!
I then moved on to some 3d. This is where things got interesting, or not.......Long story short, 3d performance is also (subjectively since the 40 is long gone) identical with the possible exception of
maybe a little more brightness. Ghosting is not any worse from memory of when my 40 had a new bulb, but its certainly not any better either which is to be expected all things considered (same panels, etc......). I ran through 3 discs skipping around and watching various chunks/sections and here is what I found as far as ghosting, the crosstalk canceler and the parallax adjustment............
First up, the grand daddy of ghosting on my RS40, Dinosaurs Giants of Patagonia!!!!!
Starting at about the 6:30 mark, ghosting becomes steady and frequent just like on the 40, BUT the ghosting here was much more subtle/faint. I am guessing though that the reason it was much more subtle/faint is simply due to the new lamp in the 45 vs the ~400 hour lamp in the 40 when I watched this. The actual amount of ghosting was subjectively going off memory the same
Where things got interesting though is when I would pause a scene and experiment with parallax and the crosstalk canceler. Here is what I found
so far........
Basically, the crosstalk canceler is useless IMHO and here is why. The only setting of the 4 that seems to do anything at all is the "white" option and the ONLY thing the white options seems to do is lighten/darken the overall image. When you move this setting all the way down to -8, the ghosting is harder to see, but the overall image is dimmer so that makes sense. Moving this all the way up to +8 the ghosting is easier to see, but the image is brighter in general so this also makes sense. With either extreme setting though, the ghosting is certainly NOT canceled, but rather just more or less noticeable simple due to the screen being darker/brighter. The 3 other color sliders dont seem to do anything at all and I am curious what exactly these should be doing?
Bottom line though is this "feature" is largely worthless IMO since it does not eliminate crosstalk at all. It does make it a bit more subtle, but at the expense of darkening the image. Overall, I was not impressed with this addition from what I played with it so far.
Parallax was much more interesting in the fact that I could literally pause ANY ghosting scene and move the parallax adjustment one way or the other and eliminate the ghosting! the problem is every scene is different as far as what type of adjustment you need. On one extreme, we have something like the Despicable Me title at the 0:57 time stamp......at the "0" default parallax setting, the ghosting is horrible on this red title shot, BUT moving the parallax all the way to -15 almost completely eliminated the ghosting! Great right? WRONG! Fast forward to 4:52 where we have some ghosting going on with a lamp post....on this scene, I needed a +5 parallax setting to eliminate the ghosting which is not even close to the -15 needed for the previous scene. Now fast forward to the 23:31 mark where we get some ghosting on a straw that is in a cup.......for this scene I needed a -5 on the parallax to get rid of the ghosting. As you can see, the parallax setting you need to eliminate ghosting depends on the scene so you cant just pick a global setting that will work for the whole film which brings me to the conclusion that this "feature" is also worthless at least as far as ghosting is concerned and watching an entire film. For the record, both Grand Canyon and Patagonia showed the same results.
As far as flicker goes, yes it is still there and identical to the 40 from what I remember. I can see it at times and wish it was not there, but it is much more minor compared to ghosting for me. For others though, this might be an issue so best to see it with your own eyes and decide.
So there you have it so far. I will say the ghosting is NOTICEABLY better with a new bulb vs what I was watching with my RS40 near the end of my time with it when the lamp had ~400+ hours on it. It is much more faint and subtle. Dont get me wrong as there is still plenty of it for those looking and/or for those sensitive to this anomaly, but for me the 3d is at least watchable right now and this is just how I remember my RS40 when it had a new bulb. The big question is, what happens when we get to 300, 400, 500 hours? Will the ghosting increase noticeably just like it did on the previous generation? Only time will tell, but I am not holding my breath.
I have not tested any games or TnB or SbS material yet which ghosted even worse on the 40 vs blu ray 3d at 24p. I would bet the farm that the 45 will behave the same way, but I need to test it first at some point.
So those are just my first thoughts/impressions after having spent ~5 hours with the 45 and me doing my best to be as non biased as possible. Bottom line is I LOVE this projector for 2d (I only watch movies/concerts and the random game here and there though, so no sports or cable which might/might not change that opinion), but 3d is a mixed bag due to ghosting mainly and much further down the line, flicker. My personal opinion is anyone who is serious about 3d, especially if you plan to do any gaming or cable watching, grab a DLP. For 2d though, this projector is a winner IMO.
Having said all that, go see the 45 or any other projector for yourself if at all possible. We all have different sensitivity levels when it comes to certain display issues and if ghosting and flicker do not bother you, the JVCs are great for 3d otherwise! If you do go see one though, try to play a wide range of material and if you plan to do any gaming, be sure to try this out (if you can) since ghosting will most likely be worse here vs blu ray.
I will update my thoughts as I spend more time with the 45.
Some other things to note between the 40 and 45. Fan noise subjectively is the same, brightness subjectively is the same, CMD is subjectively the same...........for all practical purposes the 45 and the 40 are the same machine as far as 2d goes from what I noticed.
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